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About Dazaifu Tenmangu

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane (845-903), a scholar, politician, and poet who was active in many fields before being demoted.

There are about 12,000 Tenmangu shrines throughout Japan that are dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, who became the “god of learning” after his death, but this Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is the head shrine.

Many students and their parents visit the shrine to pray to the “god of learning” to help them pass exams and improve their grades.

At Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, in addition to the acceptance of studies, there are also prayers for blessings such as “Avoidance of Bad Luck”, safety (well-being) of one’s family, and so on.

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine receives about 10,000,000 worship-visitors a year, especially during the New Year’s holidays (January 1-3), when the number of worship-visitors is about 2,000,000. This number is the largest in Kyushu and ranks 7th or 8th in Japan.

Brief History

During the Yayoi Period (from 1000 BC to 250 AD) and the Kofun Period (from 250 to 600 AD), the coast of the Genkai-nada Sea — where Dazaifu is located—was a strategic point to what was referred to as “the window to the Asian continent.

For this reason, a branch of the ancient Japanese state was established in Dazaifu in the late 7th century, and thereafter Dazaifu became the military, diplomatic, and cultural center of Kyushu as a whole.

Later, during the Heian period (794-1185), the authority of Dazaifu was strengthened and its importance in terms of trading increased, and from the 10th to 13th centuries, trade with China, Korea, and other foreign countries flourished.

However, with the establishment of the Kamakura shogunate in 1185, the political function of Dazaifu was lost.

Dazaifu continued to prosper to a certain extent after the 13th century, but from the end of the Warring States Period (1467-1590), when the feudal lords who ruled the area fell, the area became a quiet farming village, with only Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine and its gate town attracting visitors.

 

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine was originally built in 905 as a shrine to the tomb of Sugawara no Michizane.

The shrine was built in 919 by an imperial decree of Emperor Daigo (885-930), who feared that the shrine was possessed by Sugawara no Michizane.

Since then, the shrine has been worshipped mainly by the Imperial Court, but it did not become popular until the Kuroda clan, who became lords of the area in the early Edo period (1603-1868), began to constantly maintain Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine and repair and build the shrine pavilions.

Since then, the shrine has stood as the symbol of Kyushu, attracting many worshippers to this day.

 

Now, a brief history on Sugawara no Michizane(845-903) — the man enshrined at Dazaifu Tenmangu —a very famous and respected figure in Japan as the “god of learning.

into a family of scholars, he was a child prodigy and excelled in learning to the point of becoming a doctor of letters (monjo hakase), the highest rank of scholar.

Although he was a low-ranking nobleman, his talent and ability were recognized, and he achieved an exceptional rise to the position of Minister of the Right.

This feared the Fujiwara clan, the highest authority at the time, which lead to falsely accusing Michizane of a crime he didn’t commit, relegating him to Dazaifu.

Two years later, Sugawara no Michizane  died of despair.

Interestingly, immediately after his death, natural disasters occurred frequently in various regions of Japan, and the Imperial family and the Fujiwara clan suffered mysterious deaths and illnesses in rapid succession.

People were horrified, claiming that Sugawara no Michizane had cursed the land, but the decisive event was a lightning strike on the palace in 930.

Seven people, including nobles and warriors guarding the palace, were killed by lightning and fire.

This frightened Emperor Daigo (885-930), whose health deteriorated rapidly, and he died a few months later.

After this, Tenmangu shrines dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane were erected in various places to appease his spirit, and the curse ceased to occur.

 

In the precincts of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, visitors can enjoy the flowers and plants of the four seasons.

The temple is especially famous for its plum blossoms, including the flying ume plum tree, which legend has it flew to Kyoto longing for him.

Roughly 6,000 plum trees proudly bloom from late January to late March.

In addition, cherry blossoms, camphor trees, irises, hydrangeas, chrysanthemums, and autumn leaves are also wonderful.

Also, the 400-meter-long approach to the temple is lined with about 90 stores, including souvenir stores, cafes, and fast food restaurants, making it a lively and enjoyable place to walk.

Many of the restaurants and eateries are well-known for their high quality.

The Kyushu National Museum, where visitors can experience and learn about history and culture, is also nearby.

Recommendation

You should pay your respects at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine and enjoy shopping for food and souvenirs on the approach to the shrine.

Apart from that there ins’t much else to do.

Access to Dazaifu Tenmangu

By Train

Take Nishitetsu Tenjin-Omuta Line from Nishitetsu Fukuoka Station, transfer to Nishitetsu Dazaifu Line at Nishitetsu Futsukaichi Station, and get off at Dazaifu Station. Walk 5 minutes. 

  • Approx. travel time: 35 min. 
  • 4-5 buses per hour.

By Bus

Take the Nishitetsu Dazaifu Liner bus from the Hakata Bus Terminal, get off at the Dazaifu bus stop, and walk 5 minutes.

  • Approx. travel time: 45 min.
  • 1-3 buses per hour.
  • The Nishitetsu Dazaifu Liner bus also stops at Fukuoka Airport on the way.

Dazaifu Tenmangu (Shrine)

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Sightseeing

Dazaifu Tenmangu (Shrine)

Below are the places worth checking out in order from the entrance.

Taiko-bashi and Hira-bashi bridges

Three sacred bridges span the Shinjiike pond, built in the shape of the Chinese character for “heart.”
The three bridges are, in order, Taiko-bashi, Hira-bashi, and Taiko-bashi.

The three bridges represent the “past,” “present,” and “future,” respectively, and crossing them is said to purify the body and soul.

STEP
1

Washbasin (chōzubachi)

This washbasin is made of a monolithic rock quarried from nearby sacred mountain Homanzan, and at 6m x 4m x 2m, it is one of the largest in Japan.
It is proper etiquette to wash your hands and mouth here before proceeding to the main shrine.

STEP
2

Two-storied gate (Rōmon)

This brightly painted vermilion gate in front of the main shrine building is an irimoya-style structure with a cypress bark roof.
It is a very unusual structure with a double roof when viewed from the pond side and a single roof when viewed from the main shrine.
The gate was built by Sugawara no Sukemasa (925-1010), a great-grandson of Sugawara no Michizane, and was destroyed by fire several times, but was rebuilt each time.
The current tower gate was rebuilt in 1914.

STEP
3

Sacared Cow Statue (Goshingyū)

On the temple grounds you will find many sacred cows, this is due to Sugawara no Michizane  having close relationship with cows.
In particular, the sacred cow located in front of the main shrine building, next to the water bowl, is believed to cure illnesses in the part of the body that is stroked by the hand.

The head of the cow, which is “supposed to make you smarter” when stroked, is shining brightly after being stroked (presumably) tens of millions of times, which shows how many people in the world are not very smart.

STEP
4

Main Shrine (Honden)

The main shrine is a stately building with a hiwadabuki roof, built in the Gokansha-ryuzukuri style, and decorated with vermilion and gold colors.

In 905, a shrine was built at the grave site of Sugawara no Michizane, and later in 919, the shrine was constructed by an imperial decree of Emperor Daigo (885-930), who feared the vengeful spirit of Sugawara no Michizane.

The shrine was destroyed by fire several times, but Kobayakawa Takakage (1533-1597), a powerful feudal lord, rebuilt it over a period of five years, completing the present main hall in 1591.

More than 400 years have passed since its construction, and the splendid architectural style of the Momoyama period (1573-1603) is still beautifully preserved.

STEP
5

Tenkai-inari Shrine

The oldest Inari Shrine in Kyushu (dedicated to the gods of the harvest and industry).

It is located on the north side of the main hall of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine and a 10-minute walk up steep stone steps past a few teahouses (on the right).

Uganomitama no Kami, the god of luck and happiness, is enshrined here. The main hall of this shrine and the “Okuno-in” (inner sanctuary) behind the main hall are also called the “strongest power spots,” and it is believed that visiting them will bring a great increase in luck.

STEP
6

Approach to Shrine (Sandō)

About 90 stores line the 400-meter-long approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine from Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station.

The stores are mainly souvenir stores, cafes, and fast food restaurants, yet many of them are beautiful and the street is lively, making it enjoyable to walk around.

Additionally, many of the restaurants here are excellent.

Visitors can enjoy ramen noodles, mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and sweets made from Fukuoka’s specialty products, such as the high-end strawberry “Amaou”.

The Starbucks on the approach was designed by Kengo Kuma, the world-renowned architect who designed the main stadium for the Tokyo Olympics.

The interior, with its innovative wooden structure, is well worth a visit.

Flowers

Plum (Ume)

Influenced by Sugawara no Michizane , who loved Japanese plum, about 6,000 plum trees of about 200 varieties are planted at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.

During the blooming period from late January to late March, it becomes a “famous ume viewing spot” where visitors can enjoy the fragrance of the fragrant ume and the pretty flowers.

The best time to visit is from mid-February to mid-March.

The plum tree to the right of the main shrine is the “flying plum tree,” which is the sacred tree and symbol of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.

Legend has it that this tree flew from Kyoto one night in love with Sugawara no Michizane , and it is the first plum tree among the approximately 6,000 plum trees to bloom each year.

The Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is decorated with plum motifs on the roofs, pillars, lanterns, and other parts of the building.

Other flowers and trees

In addition to Japanese plum blossoms, many other seasonal flowers and trees can be enjoyed in the precincts of the temple.

Below are the main flowering trees and their best viewing times.

  • Cherry blossoms: Late March–mid-April
  • Young camphor leaves: mid-April–late May
  • Japanese iris: early June–mid-June
  • Hydrangea: early June–late June
  • Chrysanthemums: early November–late November
  • Autumn leaves: mid-November–early December

Entertainment

Museums

Kyushu National Museum

One of only four national museums in Japan. (The others are located in Tokyo, Nara, and Kyoto.) Based on the concept of “understanding the formation of Japanese culture from an Asian historical perspective,” the museum introduces the history of cultural exchange with other Asian regions in five easy-to-understand themes. The museum’s greatest feature is that […]

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Eat

Umegae rice-cake

Umegae rice-cake is a specialty of Dazaifu; made of rice flour dissolved in water, filled with red bean paste, and baked.

Although the name “ume” is in the name, it does not taste or smell like plum. (but there is a branding of plum blossoms on the skin). You can find it at about 30 stores along the approach to the temple, and can also be eaten at a teahouse on the temple grounds. It seems that a cartel has been established because no matter where you buy it, each piece is 120 yen.

Tea house Kikuchi

Located on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, this store is famous for its umegae mochi. The store uses carefully selected high-quality ingredients such as azuki beans and glutinous rice, and makes umegae mochi using its own unique method. The candy in particular is elegantly sweet and melts smoothly in the mouth. The second floor […]

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